Revolvers are a popular entry point for many new shooters because of their simplicity and ease of operation.
With revolvers come calibers like the .38 Special and .357 Magnum.
There’s no shortage of choices when shopping for ammo, so how do you pick the best for your gun?
We can help with that! Today, we’re going to run you through some recommendations for our favorite .38 Special/.357 Magnum ammo across brands and ultimately help you decide what’s best for home defense, target shooting, and even hunting.
So, keep reading!
THE QUICK LIST
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Best .38 Training Ammo
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Best CCW .38
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Best .357 Training Ammo
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Best for Long Barreled Revolvers
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Best Hunting Ammo
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Most Consistent Hunting Ammo
.38 Special & .357 Magnum Ammo in Stock
Table of Contents
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How We Tested the Best .38 Special & .357 Magnum Ammo
The Pew Pew Tactical editorial and writing staff have been shooting revolvers for collective decades. We’ve used a variety of ammunition in that time and our experience covers competition, law enforcement, military, concealed carry instructing, and plinking.
We’ve run through thousands of rounds to land on the recommendations on this list. We use these picks when we test and review guns, and they have been selected based on availability, cost, performance, and reliability.
Can You Use .38 Special in .357 Magnum?
Short answer…yes, if you are using .38 Special ammo, you can fire it safely through any .357 Magnum revolver.
That means if you have a revolver chambered in .357, you can fire both ammo types without any issues. Caution: make sure you are not using .38-40 or .38 Short, though. Those don’t work the same.
But warning: the reverse is NOT true. You cannot fire a .357 Magnum from a .38 Special. The .357 Magnum cartridge is, in fact, too long for a .38 Special cylinder to close and lock most of the time.
Popping a .357 Magnum round in a .38 Special moves the revolver from handgun to hand grenade. We don’t want that, so don’t do that.
Now, onto the ammo recommendations!
Best .38 Special Ammo
1. Federal American Eagle .38 SPL 130-grain FMJ – Best .38 SPL Training Ammo
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- Low recoil
- Good bulk pricing
- Clean shooting
Cons
- Not good for hunting or self defense
Federal is one of those companies known for producing quality, consistent ammunition that you can rely on. Their American Eagle brand is a great option for those who want a decent training round that won’t completely break the bank.
The .38 SPL 130-grain FMJ pushes just over 800 FPS, which is more than enough to plink at the range or get some training time in. Not to mention, it’s decently low recoiling, so it shouldn’t ward off new shooters who might be nervous about shooting.
Ultimately, the American Eagle brand from Federal is a great option for practice shooting, especially for newcomers.
2. AAC .38 Special 125-grain FMJ – Best Budget .38 SPL
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- Best bang for your buck
- Good performance
Cons
- Frequently out of stock
Another budget option for range days with your .38 is AAC’s 125-grain FMJ.
This option comes out to about $0.42 per round, which is pretty good if you need to blow through some ammo during training.
We’ve tried a variety of AAC calibers and couldn’t be happier with it. It’s reliable and tends to work well, especially for long days at the range. Plus, it’s reloadable if you’re into that sort of thing.
Overall, we dig this pick for range ammo for its value.
3. Hornady Critical Defense .38 Special +P 110-grain JHP FTX – Best CCW .38 SPL
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- +P means a little extra oomph
- Good if you want a slightly lower recoil than .357
- Great choice for newbies
Cons
- Not all guns are rated for +P
Hornady is a mainstay in defensive ammunition for good reason. The company has a history of providing high-quality ammunition that is consistent and reliable in performance.
The Critical Defense line is no different. The .38 SPL +P 110-grain JHP FTX might be a mouthful to say, but don’t let that deter you. This round brings a lower recoil, perfect for those newer to concealed carry or those who just want a lighter recoiling round.
Using Flex Tip technology, the round offers consistent expansion, which you want in a defensive situation. All in all, Hornady’s Critical Defense is a solid defensive round, whether you want it in your carry revolver or loaded in your bedside gun.
Best .357 Magnum Ammo
4. Sellier & Bellot .357 Magnum 158-grain FMJ – Best .357 Magnum Training Ammo
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- Easy to find
- Good blend of value and performance
Cons
- Recoil might be too much for some
We are big fans of Sellier & Bellot not only because it tends to be reasonably priced and accessible but because it performs well in a range/training environment.
At 158 grains, it does have some punch, but it’s not completely unmanageable recoil-wise. Sellier & Bellot has a good reputation for consistent, reliable performance, and the .357 Magnum has performed well in our experience.
All in all, it offers a good balance that proves useful if you’re tearing it up at the range.
5. Remington Golden Saber .357 Magnum 125-grain JHP – Best for Long Barreled Revolvers
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- Best for longer-barreled guns
- Very consistent
Cons
- Can be tough to source
If you’re rocking a longer-barreled gun, the Remington Golden Saber .357 magnum 125-grain JHP is what you want.
This round is optimized for use in longer barrels and brings a muzzle velocity of 1,220 FPS. We’ve used the Golden Saber lineup in other calibers, and again, it’s a consistent performer.
If you need a round for that longer barrel and want a round you can rely on when things go south; the Remington Golden Saber fits that bill.
6. Federal Personal Defense Hydra-Shok .357 Magnum 158-grain – Best CCW .357
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- Designed for self-defense
- Reliable design with great expansion
Cons
- Pricey
Federal hits the list again with its Personal Defense Hydra-Shok lineup.
The Personal Defense Hydra-Shok in .357 Magnum is a 158-grain round designed for self-defense. It offers decent penetration and expands upon impact, helping stop threats. In our experience, it does have a little more recoil but with some training, shouldn’t be an issue.
We’ll say it again, Federal is renowned for its quality control and reliability. So, you know you’ll have consistent performance time and time again – that’s important in the self-defense realm.
7. Buffalo Bore Heavy .357 Magnum 180-grain LFN – Best Hunting .357 Magnum
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Pros
- Good for medium game
- Good reputation for quality
Cons
- Pricey
Looking to get out into the field? Our first recommendation for a solid hunting option comes from Buffalo Bore.
The Heavy 180-grain lead flat nose option in .357 Magnum is designed for deep penetration – needed for reaching vital organs and ensuring an ethical hunt. In addition to deep penetration, the round also offers plenty of muzzle energy to take down game.
It’s a reliable load with some versatility, making it a good option for revolver hunters.
8. Federal Vital-Shok .357 Magnum 140-grain – Most Consistent Hunting .357 Magnum
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
-
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Pros
- Rapid expansion on impact
- Known for reliable expansion and performance
Cons
- Recoil might be too much for some
Federal makes one final appearance on our ammo stage with its Vital-Shok round.
This 140-grain round offers rapid expansion upon impact, creating a larger wound channel, making for an ethical hunt.
There’s a reason Federal tends to show up in our lists more than once, and that’s because we’ve found them to be extremely consistent and reliable with quality primers and brass.
If you’re intent on revolver hunting, Federal’s Vital-Shok is a good one to have in the cylinder.
FAQs
What is .38 Special best for?
.38 Special can be used for target shooting, self-defense, and even varmint hunting
What is .357 Magnum good for?
.357 Magnum is a great self-defense and medium game round.
Is .38 Special good for concealed carry?
.38 Special is a good option for revolver fans and those that want a smaller carry gun.
Final Thoughts
As with any firearm, you want to make sure that you’re pairing the right round to the right job. Across the most popular shooting activities, we think the above choices hit the mark and balance performance, price, and best use case.
What’s your go-to ammo brand? Let us know in the comments below. Shopping for a revolver? Check out our list of the Best .357 Magnum Revolvers.
Latest Updates
April 23, 2024: Added supplemental data and information to each product section to offer more information about each choice. Enhanced our How We Test section with additional information related to the testing of the ammo.
February 20, 2024: Rewrote this article with all new recommendations based on our testing and use.
57 Leave a Reply
My Ruger SP 101 3" will only print POI/POA with Buffalo Bore 19A/20, 180 gr- HEAVY 357 MAG OUTDOORSMAN Pistol and Handgun Ammo ammo. $3.00 per round with S&H. Everything else goes low left, as the bullet weight increases it tracks higher and to the right until at 180 gr, its right on target. Love the gun, don't shoot it much.
“If you need a round for that longer barrel and want a round you can rely on when things go south; the Remington Golden Saber fits that bill”. When things go south? That is highly offensive. I was born and bred in the South and it’s quite a pleasant place to be. Please think about stereotypes when posting. We could easily cast aspersions about other regions of our nation, especially under the current climate. Please think before posting. Other than that, I enjoy PPT very much. Thank you.
Hey there! I was born and bred in Tennessee and still live here and love it! The South has always had my heart, so no offense was meant by that. It was meant solely as an expression. Thanks for reading!
Jackie, it’s OK. But, it’s an expression that disparages a WHOLE lot of people and a vast swath of the nation. As a Tennessean I would think that would ring true with you as well. Maybe it just never occurred to you. But, in the end, no harm done. Perhaps in the future you’ll be more aware. I’ll still be reading PPT as I find it very informative and interesting. On another note, I’m 15 miles south of Tennessee straight down I-65. You and some of your buds need to come go to the range with me sometime.
From Wikipedia: "The origin is unclear. Common belief attributes it to the standard orientation of maps, where south is the downwards direction. Alternatively, it could stem from a euphemism used by some Native Americans for dying."
Boy, I stirred up a hornet’s next. However, I never reference Wikipedia as any edit there can be made without attribution. But, “going south” has been interpreted by many of us here as a derogatory term and it certainly has been used in that vein by the National media and others. I have experienced it in professional settings. Whenever I see it, or hear it, it just sticks in my craw. The Native American euphemism is a new one on me and I’m part Native American. Oh, well, let’s move on.
I’m partial to Federal 158gr LSWCHP +P’s in my .38/.357 mags. Sufficient thump, penetration, projectile deformation, but the recoil is not severe.
Sirs, thank you for this valuable forum. I am a senior citizen who recently took to hiking and saw a black bear in northern New England. I was hiking with a 38 S&W but realized my [38] would not be a match for a large animal if needed. In considering, as a senior, I must also be concerned with the weight of equipment while hiking. Would a 38 magnum or other be more appropriate? Thanks for any suggestion you may have. Love this site.
.357 Magnum. No such thing as .38 Magnum that I know of.
I use the Buffalo Bore 158 grain hard cast for my revolver on hiking trails. I either use this or a 158 grain jacketed (flat) soft point in my Henry Rifle. From American Eagle or PMC for hogs.
I am a former tactical trainer for Law Enforcement as well as over 30 Yrs in Law Enforcement as well as years of forensic experience and a former champion shooter. As such with all respect I have never, ever read one of these articles on the web that even remotely resemble truth and regality.
Amen!! I thought this article was going to be about .357 magnums!! 125 semi- jacketed hollow points at 1600 or 1700+ fps, not weak .38 Specials on par with 9mm. Millennials are swept away in marketing and a zillion online articles if they would research Into history not the present hive mind, oh the wonderful things they could learn.
This article wasn't written by a Millennial.
INDEED -- BULLET MATTERS -- MY HARD CAST KEITH STYLE 158gr 357 LOAD PENETRATES A TON -- MY 125 gr HP LOADS EXPAND RELIABLY & RARELY GO OVER 18" - EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE OF WHAT THIS FELLOW STATES -- WELL ANYWAY MY LOADS DONT DO WHAT HE SAID THEY SHOULD BE DOING
Great article, well written and informative. Glad to know there are so many types of ammo available. I bought a box of wad cutters at a gun show a few years ago and it worked great for target practice with my S&W 686+. Would those be more recommended for target and not training necessarily?
I hope I’m not repeating what was already addressed concerning the statement of heavy vrs light for self defense is reversed. The lighter and therefore faster bullet will expand more violently to the point of fragmentation, bullet construction being equal and arrest sooner than a heavier and slower bullet that retains it weight.
It's been my experience that a heavier bullet tends to go deeper than a lighter one. This article claims the reverse to be true. Upon entering a fluid medium, the heavier bullet will still have more energy to drill deeper than a lighter one. Imagine a car rolling down a hill versus a truck. The heavier truck would be harder to stop due to it's increased mass.
I have a quick question. I have an SP101 and looking for the best clean .357 ammo. Most important is you don't need to clean after targe practice and there is no residue and nothing gets clogged up. I'm a novice and ran into a "dirt and residue" problem at the range. Any suggestions and thank you! Please recommend either .357 or 38 special cleanest rounds.
I would suspect that short barrels (handguns) tend to have more residual powder than long barrels (rifles.) Gunpowder is designed with it's own oxidizers and burn in an expanding chamber. The barrel becomes a part of the chamber as the bullet advances, and with pistols having sort barrels, not all of the powder is burned before the bullet exits the barrel and releases the unburned, or incompletely burned, powder, and creating muzzle flash (easily seen at night.) Unless you are shooting multiple times per week, I suggest you run a few patches down and wipe it off.
PS: My wife confiscated my SP101.
There is a photo above with a caption reading "For cool photographic purposes only. Don’t candy cane your ammo loads, boys and girls." The fact is, a revolver is the one platform where you CAN mix different sorts of ammo without causing problems. A semi-auto might have a problem if you stuff its magazine with a variety of different cartridges.
The author gave that advice because different bullet weights and powder charges will have different points of impact if your point of aim is the same for all of them. It's not that you CAN'T interchange them; it's because you should pick one and stick with that one. Then practice. A lot.
Thanks for this. Back in the day, .38 Special +P 158 grain LSWCHP was the preferred round for carry in J-Frame snubnose revolvers. Because it is solid lead, I thought they had stopped making these rounds. Good to know it is still available.
In my Model 36 Chief's Special, whenever I fired more than one box of 158 gr +P HP rounds. The revolver would cease functioning. It would actually lock up on me. I wasn't able to shoot double action at all. Even with a two-handed grip in the trigger, it would not advance the cylinder I had to thoroughly clean it before it would function. I found out that the steel-framed Model 36 was not designed to use +P loads. It will chamber and fire +P rounds, but no more than 50 rounds.
This is the round I load in my.38’s. Being unjacketed lead it does require a thorough gun cleaning after a range session. But, I like the round and, if I’m not mistaken, it once was the standard FBI load.
Why do you prefer soft point for hunting but hollow point for self defense? I would think the JHP would have more knock down power for both applications.
The soft point is a solid round so it will penetrate the tough animal hide (deer) and still drive deep enough for a kill. It is soft so it will deform for maximum damage. A hollow point (self defense round) will expand and clog on animal hide and not penetrate deep enough for a clean kill.
What happened to the Speer GD mentions? The 38+P has excellent
reviews about performance , along with the Speer GD 135gr SB 357mag with less felt recoil. Both I carry both for self defense because of their proven performance. Even the 9mm 124gr +’P is carried by the NYPD as issued.
The .38 SPL +P HP is a fine round-in a model 10 4" gun. Not so in a 2" S&W Model 36. My J-frame locked up due to powder fouling and I was unable to fire double-action or cock the hammer for single action. . When we transitioned over to the S&W Model 5946 DAO, we were issued 147 gr +P 9mm ammo. I always felt that the .38SPL out of a 4' Model 10 was a better round and that the reason for going to the 9mm was only for ammo capacity of 46 rounds, as opposed to 18 rounds in the .38.
I (thru experience) believe the best .357 Magnum hunting round available is the Aguila 158gr JSP. Out of my GP100 with a 4" barrel, it clocks right along at 1500+ FPS. I calculated roughly an energy at the muzzle of 800+ ft. lbs. I am not aware of other ammo out there that matches these ballistics.
Excellently presented , and gets right to the point . I see a trend towards lighter ammunition , and I suppose it's due to advanced bullet design . The .357 magnum 125gr hollow-points have been recognized as the best round for self-defense . The thing is that its been successful but at its original design velocity of 1450 fps . I'm not certain that by dropping the velocity by 200 fps makes no difference in performance . Its "World Champion" title , I believe , is all related to Velocity . At any-rate , I'm not an expert , so I'll listen to the experts that have "been there , done that" , and this Author falls into that category . Thank you , and I'll say it again , .............Great Article !!
It is the best IF it's used in a 6" barrel revolver, such as a Colt Python, or a Manhurin M73 - both very pricey guns, but the key to maximum performance is the 6" barrel.
Good article. Very straightforward and minus all the caveats and disclaimers. Just a picky technical point though. Bullet drop is really based on the range a projectile has travelled according to it's velocity Gravity acts on all bullets the same, regardless of mass or "weight". All objects like bullets with neglible air drag coefficients, "drop" at the rate of 32 ft/sec². Again that's regardless of whether the bullet weighs 110 grain or 158gr.
Great read! Thanks for putting this together. I just bought myself a couple of Ruger Vaqueros and a Henry rifle all in .357 and was looking for good bullet info. You delivered! Thanks again!
Hello
I have a question about ammo. I am newer to shooting, I recently purchased a smith and Wesson model 627 pc with a 2.6 inch barrel (snub nose) I took it to the range and am wondering if a lower grain .357 round would be best to practice with? The gun seems to handle the various loads I ran threw it but I’d like a professionals opinion of what round works best in a snub nose for accuracy and recoil control?
Thank You
Hi Matt, Best bet for practice in a defensive mode is 38 Special 125 gr. ammo. It;s cheap and you'll need to practice a lot , throw in some full power 357 to get the feel. My EDC during the winter here in the North is a 3" barreled Ruger GP100, very simular to your 627 and I used to carry 125gr. Hornady Critical Defense ammo. Don't anymore, to much recoil and blast (I hunt with a Ruger SRH in 454 Casull so I'm not shy of recoil) and it effects follow up shots. I now carry 38 Special Critical Defense or my favorite, the Buffalo Bore short barrel low recoil 158gr. 357 load. Basically a heavy 38 Special +P+ load. It doesn't flash, has lower recoil and is more controllable. Just what you need if you need more than one shot.
Excellent article. The only other thing I would add is that to train with 357 imho you typically need a N Frame pistol because only that size pistol frame will have enough heft to absorb most of the recoil so as not to abuse your hand. Sure you can shoot 357 from a sub 30 oz pistol rated for it but you're gonna feel it and you will not want to train with 357 using that pistol. If you're lucky you'll be able to fire 18-20 rounds of 357 and then you're done.... for the day!
So imho for sub 30oz pistols train with 38 special +P or try a lightweight 357 grain and see if your hand can handle the recoil.
But if you want to train with any magnum load then do your hand a favor and get a N Frame .
So training with an L frame and 158 is I'll advised?
Heavy Bullet Characteristics
• The heavier the bullet, the slower the velocity (load dependent). The speed/velocity at which it hits the ground is SLOWER than for a light bullet. The distance it travels before hitting the ground is less than a light bullet.
Lightweight Bullet Characteristics
• The lighter the bullet, the faster it will travel (load dependent). FASTER bullets have LESS bullet drop, which can increase accuracy over long distances.
Galileo proved all objects drop at the same rate. Given the same flight time, the only difference is the distance covered before hitting the target/ground.
Sorry for making a similar comment. I must have missed yours first time through.
you do a pretty good job at explaining all this. but i was always taught that heavier bullets penetrate deeper as the mass retains speed better than lighter weight rounds. faster lighter rounds make a big hit with a shallow hole. not saying like only 2-3 inches but in the 6-9 range, while heavier rounds tend to go 12+ inches. i was also taught heavier rounds kick more as it takes more powder to get the heavy lead moving even if it not as fast as the lighter round. i know there is a point where the speed will have the lighter round having more kick but if the rounds are close in speed the heavy will have more of a kick. like here i think you had a 110gr at 1300 fps and a 158gr at 1250. the 158gr will kick harder than the 110gr same with the 125gr at 1220 and the 158 at 1250. my point is it take more power to move a heavier round than a lighter one at close to the same speeds
I agree with more penetration with heavier bullets. More energy retention.
Nice write-up Fred.
Curious what you think of the gel testing that's been done out there?
https://www.ammunitiontogo.com/index.php/cName/pistol-ammo-357-magnum
https://www.luckygunner.com/labs/revolver-ballistics-test/
I was pretty surprised that barrel length didn't play as big of a role as I imagined it would. It looks like some of the smaller shops like Buffalo Bore are doing pretty well in those tests.
Barrel length can either make very little difference or make a huge amount of difference, it's odd. For something already a little underpower, such as .380 Auto, an extra inch on the barrel can be huge for expansion.
Buffalo Bore is well known for loading hot rounds, it's great if that's what you're looking for but be careful if it isn't!
I shot up two boxes of the Fiocchi 142gr FMJ .357 rounds this weekend. Wouldn't cycle through my lever action worth a flip. Upon closer inspection, it appears as though Fiocchi didn't crimp these rounds, not even a taper crimp.
I'm going to try some Prvi Partizan 158 gr SJSP next for inexpensive range rounds.
I bought my first revolver (GP100) and came here first. I needed this article. PewPew articles are a great place to start. Thanks team!
As a past gun dealer who also supplied the local police department and a gun owner and user since age 5 My experience has shown that the best all around bullet and weight for a .38/.357 mag is a 125 gr. SJHP which I have used in situations of dire straights at 1250 ft. per second with very good terminal performance and minimal penetration as expected was enough to do the job without over penetration.
But this is my choice for many different situations including self , or home defense, but I do not hunt with a hand gun from personal choice.
As I stated I have been a gun dealer as well as a gun owner since age 5 and I still own my .357 Ruger New Model Blackhawk, and my wife has her 6 inch Smith and Wesson Model 28 .357 mag Highway Patrolman she picked out for her self which I had sold out of my gun shop in 1979 and bought back here in Oregon in 1989 for $25.00 more than I sold it for, and I had personally done the trigger work on this revolver before I sold it,
My wife is not a big woman and shoots her Magnum with one hand and at 40 paces she puts 3 round in the size of a fifty cent piece using my hand loads which come out of a 4 inch barrel at 1650 and that is my load for my stainless steel 6 inch revolver which I carry for a possible run in with a Bear when I go hunting alone in the mountains of southern Oregon with a 158 gr. sj bullet.
So you have given a very good cross section of ammo and the expected results of each and I have to say that it was very well explained and put in to words that any beginner or experienced owner could under stand Good Job..
Thank you, I learned a lot. I’m a beginner and was sold wrong ammo for my 357 magnum handgun ( still learning). I was sold 357 jsp and It didn’t fit the handgun. I am assuming that the jsp is meant for rifle and not handgun from reading your article.. please correct me if I’m wrong. It wouldn’t fit and close. Thanks again.
Hi Heather, your handgun might just not like the profile of the JSP bullet.
Silly question, but are absolutely sure your revolver is a .357 magnum and not a .38 special or something else? Somewhere on the firearm will say what it can safely shoot.
Any .357 magnum and .38 special ammo will work in both revolvers and rifles. JSP will work in anything as long as it's the correct loading for the gun.
Ammunition is made to certain specifications, size and pressure. Firearms are made around those specifications and will safely chamber and shoot any ammo that it was specifically designed for.
Disregard what Eric Hung said.
A revolver will load any ammo it was made for. If the ammo doesn’t fit, it’s either the wrong ammo or the manufacturer of the ammo didn’t properly make the ammo.
If it is the right ammo and won’t fit a revolver then something is wrong with the ammo. Unless your revolver doesn’t work with ammo from different companies then it’s a problem with the gun; which is rare but can happen. (Always double check the markings on the gun/barrel)
Now, if we were talking about semi automatics than Eric would/could be right. But semi automatics are quite different then revolvers. Semi automatics can be picky sometimes but not revolvers when it comes to loading them.
Stick to well known, large and trusted companies that produce ammunition. Very rarely will you go wrong. You can run into problems when dealing with small companies, boutique manufacturers and handloaders.
Heather, my guess is that your difficulty lies in the difference between .357 Magnum revolver ammo and .357 Sig semi-auto pistol ammo. I'm not sure if you have a revolver or an automatic pistol, but that's a simple mistake for a new shooter or a big box store clerk to make.
Since you refer to your ".357 Magnum handgun," it sounds like you have a revolver, thus the problem ammo is probably .357 Sig.
Zippy is correct: commercially available ammunition is made to strict standards, as are quality firearms. If your gun and ammo are both labeled as being the same caliber, the ammo will fit. If it doesn't, something major is wrong. (Perhaps a simple error, but a crucial one!) Look at the bottom of your cartridges, as the correct caliber is stamped in the brass of every single round of ammunition. Match that to what's stamped on your gun--probably on the barrel of a revolver, and on the frame of a semi-auto.
Rarely, a gun manufacturer ships a gun in a box with an incorrect label. Ammo companies can possibly put ammo in a box marked for a different caliber--again, that's extremely rare, but it can happen.
I recently nearly bought a bought a box of .357 Sig by accident instead of .357 Mag and I’m not a newbie so, it can happen. I guess I was snoozin’ at the switch. I picked up the box, , saw it labeled .357, and nearly paid for it. Luckily, I have a habit of opening a box first to ensure all of the rounds are there (yes, I’ve purchased ammo before that was a round short of a full box) and the first thing I noticed was the bottleneck cartridge. WHEW, a good save as I don’t have a .357 Sig!!
Regarding Heavy Bullets, you say: "The speed at which [a heavy bullet] hits the ground or “bullet drop” is faster than for a light bullet." From a Physics point of view, bullets drop at the same rate if they are shot parallel to the ground, whether they are heavy or light. A lighter bullet may travel farther than a heavy bullet, but it drops at the same rate as heavier bullets. Also, you say that heavier bullets have greater recoil, and lighter bullets have less recoil. There is a debate on this point. Some say that heavier bullets, because they travel more slowly, have less recoil and less muzzle flip than lighter bullets, everything else being equal. I know that for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction, but when it comes to bullets, there is a combination of recoil and muzzle flip at play. There is less muzzle flip with heavier guns and slower (i.e. heavier) bullets. This is often confused with recoil. I'm not sure whether heavier bullets result in greater recoil or not. It is still unproven, so far as I know.
+1 on this point - to a point... I refer to my .454 Casull (hand cannon) with a 9.5" barrel. I chose the 24o grain for its long range accuracy, however it is a 'wow" experience to shoot. The recoil of this lighter weight round is almost intolerable and the muzzle flips up dangerously. (you cannot port the Casull pistol to negate this force, as it will generate more harmful db levels than hearing protection can protect against. This is somewhat of a unique characteristic to just .454 Casull revolvers..) When I don't need the range & accuracy at distance, I shoot 300 gr or larger round and the lesser recoil of the heaver loads is significantly lower. I think this starts to reverse as you decrease in caliber. For instance many ultra light & hyper velocity .22 caliber rounds don't even generate enough recoil to cycle the action of many semi-auto weapons.
Any thoughts on Ruger ARX ammo for self-defense?
I bought a box after reading several reviews speaking in its favor. If you have never heard of this round; its an 86gr. 357 Mag. round (ARX is made in several other calibers too, both for revolvers as well as semi-autos) which fires at a very high velocity of 1,620 fps, I believe, and employs an expanding copper-polymer matrix projectile. According to Ruger, this creates a maximum lethal hydraulic displacement in human tissue upon impact by the way the flutes in the projectile expand outward, delivering energy laterally in surrounding tissue, in addition to head-on.
Anyway, I just wanted to know if you knew anything about these rounds. They run at a pricey $25-30 for a box of 20 rounds, and so far are the only ammo on the market to bear the Ruger name.
I currently carry these daily in my S&W J-frame, and feel all-around confident that they would perform well should I god-forbid, ever need to actually count on their service.
Naturally, I do have a few natural concerns however;
A) They are a youngster on the market, having only been released around late 2016.
B) Although I get it that in the case of these rounds, weight is being traded in favor of max. velocity (copper-polymer is going to be light either way I suppose). But other than these, I've never even seen anything come close to 86gr. I just wonder if that may be too light for a .357 round?
C) Lastly, Ruger describes the rounds as having high-penetration of soft-targets, but also a shattering effect on hard surfaces. I see how this may be desirable in a self-defense situation. Penetrating deep, but also fragmenting at certain harder internals like bone, to create max. internal damage. But what I also wonder is if this also may cause an undesirable effect of shattering when passing through hard backdrops such as glass windows, if say perhaps given circumstances required such a shot?
Any thoughts from anybody would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ryan
Hi Ryan, I've shot them at range days but it wasn't at gelatin or anything. I still like to steer towards standard law enforcement rounds for self defense.
The literature that came with my j frame specifically states not to run any 357 loss under 120 grains as it will prematurely wear the cylinder. Just a thought.
Was the dog really rabid, or did you just not want to get bitten...?..a sharp kick in the jaw, if possible, turns most "rabid" dogs away...not saying you shouldn't protect yourself, but I've been bitten a couple times by dogs that were stirred up by adverse circumstances that had the dog protecting his turf, that did not need a lethal reaction..just sayin'...
Only way to know if a dog is rabid is to have it tested (head sent off to state lab). That's something required in many areas if a bite has occurred (depends on if it's vaccinated or not). If you have a concern (even if it's remote) make sure head is preserved and the authorities notified.